Own Your Look! How To Get A Vintage Friendly Closet (ON A BUDGET or NOT)

1950s Tulle dress, custom. Sarara Vintage, Shary Connella- rights reserved. 

I feel that serious wearers of vintage, find their love of such historic pieces because of the unique fashion forward aesthetic that it offers.   Couture pieces are so expensive because they are just that: rare, one of a kind, and custom. You can get that look with vintage due to the rarity of some finds. We all have reasons for loving vintage- the sense of history, maybe we love X designer and collect. BUT that is very different than how and why we should wear it.

Whether one is on a budget or not, these rules can be applied with success. We have all known people whose fashion sense was a mess because they had too much money with no direction (looking like a designer walking billboard) or didn't invest at all.  Some of the most successful closets out there belong to the famous and not so famous as they say. They are a blend of individuality, taste (which in some of their cases is natural-think Chloe Sevigny), quality (this is where vintage can come in, if you're not shopping the latest Chanel collection), and a sense of self.  One reason Chloe and other fashion icons become icons is that they stay true to the look and self.  They get it wrong sometimes but no one can accuse Chloe of not being authentic to her style. That brings me to step one:

Chloe in Vogue Russia, Feb 2002. 

1. Know thy self- what you will wear, when to push yourself, what looks good on your body type.

Vintage weight gain ad-http://www.wstudies.pitt.edu

2. Success in the vintage world is not just based on cash:   I truly have never believed that fashion success is based on money. You can learn to sew, curate your vintage, or find amazing designer pieces for very little cash.  Vintage helps give you a little personal satisfaction that no one can give or take away.  You found it, it suites you, and there may not be another-if there is it's not going to be easy to find.  Sometimes we pay a lot for it -sometimes we don't. (Side note: If you don't have time to shop it and have a stylist you normally pay -- I advise-please do seriously try to find it yourself sometimes, online or in the type of store that suits your shopping style).

Vintage YSL pin. $28 on Etsy via this shop.

3. Which leads me to this advice. Know thy shopping style: Don't go to a massive cluttered estate sale or shop if you get easily overwhelmed and cannot seem to edit.  Go to well edited online shops or savvy organized vintage shops in the flesh (these are sometimes pricey, but you sort of pay to not have to sift).  Etsy is a great way to get amazing pieces and find a curated shop to look through on a budget).

Vintage pile, image Sarara Vintage.

4. Look for pieces in very good to excellent condition. Avoid faded pieces or pieces with stains that show. Well done mends are okay. Older pieces like a 20s dress may have something here or there but make sure there is no fabric rot and that it is wearable with a good overall condition.

Accessocraft 1970s necklace. Not inexpensive. Type in Accessocraft on ebay or etsy for  some bargains!

5. If you have less experience with vintage, maybe start with vintage jewelry or accessories.  You get a lot of bang for your buck here. 1920s necklaces, vintage designer necklaces, and cuffs with simple silhouettes can be very chic. FOR ALL BUDGETS TRY: Trifari's larger pieces non designer, their designer vintage Diane Love line, Accessocraft jewelry, Cadoro, Kenneth Lane, 1920s beaded necklaces or deco designs or no name 60s-70s pieces...Be careful with bags make sure they have some of the shape and size for the season or that they are classic.  You can go super unique,  if that is your one vintage statement piece that you are wearing that day.

1960s Trifari necklace, available via my etsy shop $70. Trifari available on etsy from $10.

6. Try only one vintage piece per outfit to keep the look edited.  More than one item is reserved for advance users and usually only in the form of a vintage accessory plus one vintage garment.  So, if you wear a vintage dress then do new shoes etc. You don't want to look like you just stepped out of a time machine.

7. Check a fashion magazine and see what look is in this season. Look for similar vintage pieces.  This works especially well for those new to vintage.  I've been wearing vintage for years and years, so I tend to keep some basic styles like large vintage 70s jewelry -which is a staple that I wear often no matter what the trend as well.

Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 1960 or 2013?

8. Make something your thing. Once you have your practice with vintage in your wardrobe, choose a go to look. Maybe your go to look for events are vintage Alaia dresses. Maybe vintage fitted rocker tees are your thing. That is how some amazing fashion icons have worked it.  This radiates a sense of direction and a look that I feel is upscale.

9. Create a vintage mood board. Include cut outs and print looks from online. Include both past and present styles that appeal to you. Your fashion icons, vintage photographs of eras, colors, designers, everything that you feel represent a great look regardless of price.  Then edit that down to some looks to start your vintage search.

10. Sit down and make a list of the decades, finishes, fabrics, designs and colors that you admire. Keep them in mind while trying to find the best of those eras for your closet, whether they were a steal or not.

Sarara Vintage scan, Vogue April 1956 image.

11. Buy some vintage fashion magazines or photographs really look at them.

12. Educate yourself about the designers of the past and those still working that appeal to you. While the closet should not be just designers- they are celebrated for a reason.  Focus and snag the ones that appeal to your style. I love a good Bonnie Cashin coat for instance.  I also love Yves Saint Laurent.

13. Wear a vintage statement piece! You need to own a few of those, just in your face larger pieces of jewelry or interesting  patterns.  For instance, maybe you own one Paganne, Mr. Dino, Pucci, or non designer print dress.

1960s-70s Mod Paganne dress.

14. Go into stores you admire whether you can totally afford them or not.  Get some inspiration for your vintage shopping spree.

15.  Enjoy the hunt, revel in the find of that perfect fit and one of a kind piece.  We should have  fun with vintage. One well known fashion icon/model once said to me, "I like vintage because I don't have to worry about designer and making sure I say their name on the red carpet-it's vintage!"  That's part of the positive and fun for her.

SUMMARY-
This leads me to putting together a vintage friendly closet- Start by including:

1-2 Vintage dresses in the styles you gravitate towards based on your vintage magazine research.

4-5 Vintage pieces of jewelry that can be worn together or alone.

1 Great vintage coat in the iconic style of your favorite decade or by a designer you love.

2 Statement pieces that can be worn with basics: a large 70s necklace, a bold print with simple shoes and accessories, huge cuff, or interesting bag. My look is really built on this idea- I mostly use jewelry to do this or a cool vest/ jacket with a basic palette underneath.   Interesting jewelry maybe the only thing I besides basic colors that I wear during a day.  Maybe 4 stacked bracelets and a ring on the same hand/wrist and a neutral tee and jeans.

April 1956 Vogue image, scan Sarara Vintage.

Get 1 investment piece- whether you paid alot or not.  Something that will appreciate in value, is sought after, or iconic.  A Chanel bag, Nettie Rosenstein earrings, Yves Saint Laurent bag or necklace, 70s DVF wrap dress, Ceil Chapman dress....   If you are on a budget just put in the time, make this part of the hunt. I own a few of these investment pieces that I found by putting in effort but didn't break the piggy bank. After all this is part of the fun of building a vintage foundation. Hopefully, it will give you confidence and make getting dressed easier and less intimidating.

In the end your wardrobe must fit you and your lifestyle. That said have a piece in that closet which represents your dream day or night. Even if you don't wear it as much as your vintage cowboy boots! If you are invited to events and such -own it. Vintage is a great way to do that. Halston, Oscar de La Renta, Dior, as well as amazing 1920s-30s seamstress made dresses offer an amazing red carpet look. Hopefully, this list helps to get admirers of vintage on track or give one a better place to start. I honestly wear something vintage almost everyday-usually in the form of an old piece of jewelry.  It is part of my long love affair with the history of fashion.  I find pieces that make me happy at a variety of prices.  If you are on a budget the reality is, it takes more time to find those perfect pieces because you have to stick to a plan. However, I know it is very possible with a little effort.  In our society many times we are judged on what we wear.  In the end Scarlet, I just don't give a#&@^ that sometimes I get it right and other times wrong, as long I get it.

The Pin Up What's in It For Us? From Gibson Girls, Betty Paige to Today's Gal

Photography by Rich Croland, Antique Boylans Truck. Model Jennifer Rogers, rights reserved.

In terms of our society's vision of the female body, the early pin up images celebrate the female form.  Scholars discuss the origins of this girl beginning with the Gibson Girls of the 1880s, gaining strength in the calendar art of the early 1900s. By the 20s sexuality was in and the cat was out of the bag. Hemlines rose exposing one taboo part of the ankle and legs after the other. Female bodies were however, very androgynous. Flappers wanted that boyish look so that they could play down some of the restricted feminine shapes sculpted by the girdles of their mothers.  The Ziegfeld Follies gals of the 20s were like real life pin ups and inspired early artists like Alberto Vargas! With the help of such well trained eyes, such as Vargas, the golden age of pin up art in the 1940s was ushered in. Today, what was considered risky is now just, well not.... This end really came in the 1960s as concepts once again changed. 

Alberto Vargas, pin up image, rights reserved.

As a visual anthropologist, I have studied gender and the sexualization of the female form as well as how these notions fluctuate in societies. I understand both sides of the coin. Yet, in terms of pin ups, it is not really so black and white. After watching a documentary style film on Betty Paige, I have a new appreciation for the history of pin up.  Her life story is really quite interesting. Was she pushing sexual boundaries and control of her own image? For the vintage world now, women like Dita Von Tesse appeal, because they evoke the shapes that once filled the vintage dresses we now admire.  They highlight the appreciation of a past erotic history as art. 

Photography by Rich Croland, Antique Boylans Truck. Model Jennifer Rogers, rights reserved.

My intern recently brought to my attention a wonderful collection of pin up photograph images done of her in the "vintage style".  Her images are sweet and evoke that symbolism, yet show no skin. This image above of Jen is actually more realistic- the pants of the factory girl.  A sort of Rosie meets pin up. The photographer of these images needed more portfolio pics and Jen was dying to have some pin up shots done-so here we are! I love the concept of capturing your vintage self.  I think the 40s gals are especially relatable, because while they worked in factories and held down the home front during the war, they were also mothers, sisters, wives, girlfriends, and grandmothers.  It is precisely this feminine strength that lovers of the 40s look strive for.   My own grandmother worked in a bomb making factory during this time. For a look at what women were wearing outside of the pin up fantasy see Sammy Davis Vintage's 1940s Women's Clothing post.

Jen's photo shoot is a celebration of her love of all things vintage!  I swear if it weren't for her 40s-50s outfits I wouldn't have gotten as much interest at our Manhattan Vintage Show booth! Thanks Jen. Her army themed images evoke these strong 40s factory women, as well as the soldiers beloved pin ups.   I guess it goes back to that old question, can we as women be in charge of our image, be sexy and strong?

Photography by Rich Croland, Antique Boylans Truck. Model Jennifer Rogers, rights reserved.

Why do we see a returned interest in pin ups? I have noticed women recently doing these photo shoots, some to feel a little more glam or beautiful. If you aren't interested in that take, a look at the biographic information related to pin up gals like Betty Paige may appeal to you. I relate to her because of her southern mixed heritage and wit. Others may relate to her for various reasons. Her images celebrate the female form and her own struggles in terms of taking control of her sexuality and career.  There will always be a divide -you can see that in the extreme shapes of the 80s where women dressed like "working girls" in almost male type suits, hiding their bodies. This was an effort to gain equality in the workforce and a reflection of changing roles. In my opinion in many ways, during the 1940s you kind of have the best of both worlds-strong feminine women with Joan Crawford shoulders and Paigesque bodies.

Personally, I love the vintage look they evoke and how one can explore their own beauty. As a strong opinionated gal, I have traditionally tried to avoid the whole- feminine body on show- aesthetic. Yet, recently I have been interested in the stories behind these gals. Especially, after acquiring magnificent jewelry used on stage by a Las Vegas showgirl in the 60s via another contact. I found myself loving the larger than life slightly sexy, but strong bold pieces like the slave bracelets and huge cuffs.

Another positive is that the pin up today is inclusive of curvy shapes.  This was very obvious in Double Divas, LiviRae Lingerie's pin up shoot. The episode aired on their new television show. Molly was urged to do one such shoot. Her fears were that of showing her plus size body in a sexy way. I would say it was a fun episode and did empower her in terms of her own self image.

So in today's post I celebrated my wonderful intern Jen's colorful images, that put a smile on my face. I hope you enjoy this retro imagery as well as revisiting the history of the pin up.


Online articles about the history of the pin up:
http://www.arthistoryarchive.com/arthistory/pinupart/
http://www.kentsteine.com/history.htm
http://www.thepinupfiles.com/vargas2.html#.UZJtdL9KMy4
http://www.bettiepagemovie.com

The Vintage Bridal Dress: How to Find a Vintage Wedding Dress by Decade 1900-1970.

1950s custom made dress, Sarara Vintage shop/Shary Connella image.

As wedding season approaches, dress options may be on your mind. Wearing a vintage wedding dress is nothing new, women have been altering or passing down their wedding attire for years.  However, what about when it's not a family piece? As the use of vintage dresses has become popular many are now for sale online. I wanted to try to make it a little easier to find one so complied a list of dress options by eras.  Vintage wedding dresses can be a classic, lasting aesthetic for the bride. One that, if carefully chosen, you can look back at without regret. Here is the run down by decade:

The Edwardian:

Circa 1901 Irish Crochet Dress,  Charles Whitaker Auction Company image.

You can make two choices here: 1. the authentic era dress or 2. the 1970s retelling of the story.
I am a fan of the Edwardian tea dress or Irish crochet dress, if it is well made and in good condition. It affords a sort of easy cotton beach or outdoor wedding look.  I just saw a wonderful crochet version at auction which I literally almost grabbed for the shop, but the price went a tad higher than I did! See the auction image above. With the quality crochet and hand made gowns expect to pay a little more.  A tea dress in good condition can be found for around 200-850.  If it is Battenburg lace the price goes up from there. Good sources include Vintage Textile. Vintage Textile has quality pieces at higher prices.

Edwardian tea dress, pristine condition. For sale at Sarara Vintage Bridal.

The 70s Edwardian/Hippie:
If you love the hippie look a Gunnie Sax dress by Jessica McClintock, from the 70s could work or a vintage white Mexican embroidered dress. Both of these are more casual. Take care and try to choose a design with little less to it, these can go really bad very quickly!

The Flapper, The 20s and the 30s:
The flapper wedding dress is short with a drop waist and can be beaded and really very much what we think of in terms of the things they would have worn out to dance.  The 20s dress can be a simple cream dress such as the one below-sort of a shorter version of the cotton tea dress. Another choice would be the late 20s gown, a long liquid satin dress which extends into the 1930s and changes design slightly.   I would recommend Emmeline Chic and  Dear Golden for vintage 20s-30s wedding dresses.

1920s dress, Emmeline Chic image. rights reserved. Available here.

1930s Dress, Dear Golden Bridal Shop. Image by Dear Golden

I am a huge fan of the liquid satin gowns of the late 20s and 30s. You will have more luck finding the ones from the 30s such as the example above.  

The 1940s Gal:

1940s Wedding dress, Sarara Vintage Bridal, Shary Connella image.

 The 40s dress has a little more structure and we see the shoulders and sleeves become more defined.  You can also look for a regular 1940s crepe dress in a lighter color for a more casual look or alternative to the white gown.

1940s liquid satin dress, Sarara Vintage/Shary Connella image.

A 40s dress can be found easily at Fab Gabs who also has a great selection of 30s and 50s-60s available.

The 50s Bombshell or Prom Queen:

1950s body conscious looks aka something Marilyn would have worn in cream or white can be found if you don't want a ball gown or traditional style. Look for a white or cream Ceil Chapman like the one below.  

Ceil Chapman vintage dress, via Antique Dress- click here.

The bits of tulle heaven! Tulle dresses were designed for proms, coming out parties, and weddings in the 1950s.  The first image on the post is an example of the most lush custom 50s ball gown I have owned. I used to say there can be too much tulle, I now know I was wrong. I say if that is the look you are going for --just do it. The one from the shop, seen in the image below, sold to a collector before I could even list it!  Alfred Angelo's 1950s wedding dresses are also a good example of the ball gown as a wedding dress. You can search under vintage 50s Edythe Vincent for Alfred Angelo. I have one listed on etsy  Grace Kelly's wedding dress she wore in 1956, really is the best of both worlds.

1950s Christian Dior Gown, Sold via Antique Clothing. Image by Antique Clothing.

The Sleek 60s or Mod Maven on Mad Men:

1960s Lace Wedding Dress, Handmade by Seamstress. sold. Sarara Vintage dress. Shary Connella image.

I find the 60s dresses a little refreshing. You can find a straight clean cut or shorter mod short versions. Strapless and tank styles. The one above is an alternative color and style. It can be used for an event or wedding. There are those with a bit of lace and others with embroidered details.  Audrey Hepburn did the mod maven best- in her 1960s wedding dress. It was very similar to the one offered below.

 Go Go Vintage Dress, image by gogovintage etsy. 

More online shops for vintage bridal gowns:

The Vintage Bride Boutique

Posh Girl Vintage

Mill Crest Vintage

Daughters of Simone

Etsy Weddings

Jana Starr

Xtabay Vintage

                                                     

The Great Gatsby and a 20s Kimono Jacket: Lois Wilson's screen worn rhinestones

1920s Rhinestone Kimono, Lois Wilson. Sarara Vintage. Shary Connella images, rights reserved.

With yet another Great Gatsby film releasing soon in the cinemas, I am reminded of the allure of the novel and films. The first one was produced in 1926 and I hold out hope that a copy of the film will be found, as it is reported to be a lost film. There is only a snippet of the preview and some poster images.

Lois Wilson was cast as the iconic Daisy in 1926. The cast included Warner Baxter as Gatsby. This film is iconic for various reasons, but most interestingly to me because I recently acquired a garment which was said to have come from Lois's collection and to have been worn in the first film. It was overseas where two other of her items were sold to a private collector. Said collector also has a letter by Lois mentioning my garment here- as screen worn in the first Great Gatsby in 1926.  The evidence is encouraging and I hope to find more information about the collector/letter. The garment is marked inside with an AU  - letters which I have seen on other paramount pictures film wardrobe items.  There are also numbers and her last name as seen below, the numbers are as follows 989 AU 10.

Wilson tag. Sarara Vintage image.

The provenance is stated by the former owner and curator, as having come over in the 70s from England to Australia for a Sydney museum exhibit, but it was not displayed.  Arriving in England after Lois Wilson attended the British Empire Exposition and formed enduring relationships with UK officials. In 1988 a private collector acquired the dress and shoes, as well as a letter written by Lois which mentions our Kimono jacket as being screen worn.

1920s Rhinestone Kimono, Lois Wilson. Styled/direction by Sarara Vintage. Shary Connella images, rights reserved. 

1920s Rhinestone Kimono, Lois Wilson. Styled/direction by Sarara Vintage. Shary Connella images, rights reserved.

That said I am holding my breath for them to find the film, so I can see her dance across the screen in this jacket! Until then we have the history and current evidence. I hope you enjoy the images, I just couldn't resist styling up my model in a tribute The Great Gatsby. The rhinestone pattern is stunning! The large 1920s feather fans are from my archive. The jewelry is from sararavintagecouture.com. 

And as the film debuts yet again, in another incarnation, we can imagine Carey Mulligan wearing this in some fab spread like the new Vogue 20s Gatsby homage in the May 2013 issue.  You can see the Carey Mulligan shoot preview at vogue here and at this  link. 
Get the Gatsby style at Sarara Vintage's 1920s Accessories collection for sale here and at Sarara Vintage Couture. We have an amazing stock of glass beads owned by a woman who brought European glass necklaces over with her in the 20s:

20s Feed Sack Fashion: A Quaker Oats Dress, The Great Depression, Marilyn, and Dolce!

1920s Sack Dress, Sarara Vintage. Shary Connella photograph.

I'll be honest I remembered in the corner of my mind the potato sack dress- from sayings such as "oh you'd look good in anything, even a potato sack". I really hadn't thought of the literal incarnation, until I ran across a 1920s feed sack dress that made me smile. Both potato sacks and feed sacks were repurposed, though most dresses were made of the cotton muslin animal feed sacks. This one was reportedly found in the attic of "grandma's" house.  The fact that the owner had thought enough to save it was intriguing, as it could have been viewed as something to be ashamed of.  Seeing this cotton muslin dress,  I could see why she had preserved it- while utilitarian and basic in form, the dress was fun and colorful with a flirty flapper cut, pocket, and ruffle. It had seen better days, but again still it was saved. This piece has the 20s straight cut that was so popular and that flapper style but with simple finishes like a slit neck. This Quaker Oats co. FULL-O-PEP EGG MASH has won my heart! I mean just look at the fighting roosters and stripes.

1920s Sack Dress, Sarara Vintage. Shary Connella photograph.

The potato sack or feed sack dress was born of necessity during a time when people just didn't have the extra money to buy clothing.  Many farm families used these sacks to make clothing as a form of reusing and economizing and they were most certainly born there.  I find it inspiring that women created whimsical dresses and held on to some of their personal style, using something that was intended to be functional. The sack companies themselves started making prints with florals and these women in mind in the mid 20s.

Percy Kent feed sack ad, 1949.

They knew that they could actually sell more of their products based on the pretty prints on their bags.
In the 40s during the War they made a comeback, due to necessity as well. Even Marilyn herself threw one on, as the story goes after someone told her she could make a potato sack look good. (The other version says a woman told her she looked like a hussy and that she'd look better in a potato sack). Whatever the real story is, it's now history, which repeated itself at Dolce and Gabbana's Spring/Summer 2013 fashion show!

Marilyn photographed by Earl Theisen in a potato sack, 1952.

Dolce & Gabanna 2013 runway show image, Dolce & Gabanna image, rights reserved.

I wanted to add my version to the image archive so that collector's and vintage lovers could enjoy seeing my not so shy feed sack dress.  So next time you are looking at a vintage dress in a pretty cotton pattern from the 20s-early 50s, just think maybe it was once a feed sack! Below you can see more examples of these versatile fabrics and dresses.

JWVintage Closet's 1940s feed sack dress, image jwvintagecloset.

FabGabs 1930s Sack dress, FabGabs image. See it here.

Sharon's Antiques Vintage Fabrics swatch. See the collection here.

The Top North American Vintage Designs to Collect and Wear

Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art

When looking through my store and collection, I realized that North American designers are a building block for the vintage fashion lover. Living in New York and having the luxury of going into the city where the "American" style was built and continues to thrive also helps! In this country we most certainly have a history of fashion design all our own.  Of course we all covet the European designers like Chanel, YSL, Lanvin, Oscar, Dior, and others who were born outside the United States, which became American staples. Designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli, born in Italy altered "American" style forever.  Some of which like Oleg Cassini, french born became an American national as well as an institution. As hard as it was, I wanted narrow down the designers which have helped shape the history of the "American" look.  I did this by focusing on those born in the country working prior to 1979. You can see a full view of the entire history of the "American" look here at the Brooklyn Museum.  Without further ado...

                       Key Pieces From The North American Designers (Pre 1979) List:

1. Gilbert Adrian-Anything you can get-his dresses of course but these are a rare treat.  His glamourous style and pulse on American chic led to the creation of his couture "Old Hollywood" style.  The power shoulders, cut of the gowns...  However, my favorite example above, merges the chic and North American influence is this southwestern inspired dress by Gilbert circa 1948.  "Gilbert Adrian designed numerous ensembles for his friend and client, Millicent Rogers (1902-1953), yet few as personal as this dress. Adrian and his wife introduced Rogers to the American southwest by inviting her to Taos area in 1947, igniting a love of the region that lasted for the remainder of Rogers' life"(Met Museum).

2. Lilli Ann- I think it is safe to say if you have one piece of Lilli Ann, it should be a coat. Look for the styles with fur trim and a cinched waist or swing coat style. Her coats can be scored at various prices.  Indiecultvintage, Dear Golden, and Bustown Modern seem to always have the perfect Lilli Ann coat in stock during the fall/winter months.

Lilli Ann Coat, Vogue Nov. 1952. Photo Richard Avedon.

3. Bill Blass another icon has a lot of pieces on the market. Look for mixed patterns and fabrics.

1970s Bill Blass Gown. Image by Vintage Rosemond, rights reserved.

4. Geoffrey Beene a classic American designer and couture creator with a soft architectural yet timeless look. Try to find Beene pieces that exhibit a sporty yet modern structured feel or a softened yet dressy elements.

Geoffrey Beene evening gown. Museum of Fine Art, Boston, Image by MFA.

5. Bonnie Cashin's work is such a perfect example of American sporty chic. It is polished but easy to wear. Focus on her coats for sills and early bags for coach.  Prices range from around 100-900.
                           
          Bonnie Cashin for Sills coat and belt. 1973. Bonnie Cashin Cape, circa 1963. Met Museum Archive and Image.

Vintage Luxury, 1stdibs. Click here.

                           
Ceil Chapman was worn by stars such as Marilyn Monroe. Look for her evening, formal attire well draped dresses -these are her signature looks.

Couture Ceil Chapman dress. Image by Tomorrow's Envy.

Victor Costa known for bringing "cheaper" versions of couture and European designers to the states. Pick what you like, his vintage designs are also affordable. I like his work for Suzy Perette.

Lilli Diamond was at her best with the fitted bodice and plush skirt or the wiggle style dress.  Her little black dresses are where it is at! You can see examples in my Who is Lilli Diamond post.

Mr Dino is all about going bold or going home! Known for his mid century prints.  Look for one with a white or black base and geometric shapes.

Mr. Dino dress for sale here. Image by Story Threads.

Perry Ellis was famous for his sporty men's wear used by the likes of John Lennon and Bruce Lee.  He also made women's sport influenced clothing. Look for those easy wear shapes that aren't too dated in silhouette.

Leslie Fay became well known for a practical dress that was wearable and not overly expensive.  Look for just a simple shift dress for work.

                                       

Diane Von Furstenberg dress, circa 1970s. Sarara Vintage and Shary Connella image. See it here.

DVF is all about the wrap dress, she really invented the American wrap dress, it was light and sporty yet chic!  Go for a vintage Diane Von Furstenberg in a wonderful print.

DVF wrap dress, met museum image. 1975,76.

Halston for me would be two things, the Elsa Peretti perfume bottle necklaces and the easy wear draped dresses in various forms evoking a Greek Goddess. Some were made of chiffon, some casual fabrics. It's really all about the event dress in everything from sequin gowns to the one shoulder silhouette.  Look for rich colors for evening and the 70s beige and khaki for day wear versions.  See the Met Museum collection of Halston here.

Silk Halston dress, Met Museum Collection Image. 1978.

Tommy Hilfiger was working pre 1970s trafficking bellbottoms from the city to his hometown. He did not start his label officially until 1985. So he really should't be included I guess, but I wanted to mention his contribution to preppy "American" style.
Betsey Johnson was a bit of the junior sport look with dash of rock/punk thrown in!  Little short bold print tops and dresses- earlier pieces would be great for collectors as she dressed the likes of Twiggy during this phase.  See the Manhattan Vintage Show blog for their shoot on her clothing, which was the focus of the last MVS show in NYC.

Norma Kamali used different textiles to form her look which included interesting coat shapes and the 1980s shoulder pad look. She used velvet to make Edwardian inspired suits and sweatsuit material to make a long tailored jacket-which I own!

Donna Karan's garments are well tailored and full of basic staples for a working woman and or stylish busy mom. Her looks mix and match jersey dresses and such. Her experience with working for Anne Klein surely influenced her style as well. Look for her easy to wear vintage dresses of such textiles.

Anne Klein is seen as a sort of founder of "American" sport style with a comfortable sophisticated edge. She used separates such as blazers and her iconic lion logo design.  One can look for her lion on scarves and in her jewelry line. I do like the larger jewelry she produced in the 80s.

Calvin Klein was founded at the tail end of the 60s on minimal lines, cuts, and designs; but who could forget the designer jeans, underwear, and perfume ads!  Look for those early pieces such as the 70s signed jeans.

Ralph Lauren's contribution to the North American look is his play on the west, Native American designs, khaki, and woven textiles.  Early American textiles and plaids surely influenced his work.  Not to forget his use of preppy sporting styles inspired by riding and polo.  Look for styles seen on his vintage site: rlvintage, the southwestern sweaters and pieces to collect are all demonstrated there.

Bob Mackie is known for his artistic dazzled pieces used by the likes of Cher.  You can definitely see his love of costume design and one should look for pieces that demonstrate this flair when wearing and collecting.  Embrace the beads, feathers, and velvet. His pieces are becoming very collectible, see the auction record.

From the Ebony Fashion Fair Collection.  Leslie Hindman auction image. 1970s Bob Mackie Dress.

Mary McFadden's work reflects her use of art history, travel, and other cultures. Look for  gowns/dresses with wonderful textile designs, draping, embroidery, and prints.  Her Delphos Fortuny goddess inspired gowns are also collectible.

Jessica McClintock's line is known for bridal dresses and gowns. However, her vintage early hippie style Gunne Sax dresses are still worn today.

Anna Miller was sister to Maurice Rentner. Her line of 40s-50s dress are collected- so look for her early pieces. You can see an example of her label on the Vintage Fashion Guild vintage label resource.

Lilly Pulitzer was known and continues to be collected/worn for her colorful resort style.  You can find many of her not so shy vintage bright early floral dresses in vintage stores.

Henry Rosenfeld made great dresses for the everyday woman that were stylish yet affordable. Look for styles like the one seen in my shop, see image below. Now very collectible.

Late 40s-50s Henry Rosenfeld cotton dress. Sarara Vintage, Shary Connella photograph.

Nettie Rosenstein was an important high end designer with many aspects to her line including accessories, bags, clothing, perfume, and jewelry.  I adore her large whimsical jewelry and her bags in interesting shapes and fabrics.

Nettie Rosenstein sequin handbag. Sarara Vintage image, for sale here.

Malcom Starr gained popularity in part because of his gowns and evening attire. Try to find 1960s beaded or metallic gowns or country club style sets, picture Mad Men parties!

Claire McCardell is a founding mother of American ready to wear clothing, her line being popular in the 30s-50s. She has a special place here as her designs are considered the beginning of the "American" style. Casual chic would be her look. Honestly finding anything by her would be worth the time! The met museum has several examples of her work here.

Vera Maxwell is famous for those 50s suit coats and sets. See the fashionencyclopedia.com for an in depth article on her designs and history.

Elizabeth Hawes had higher end construction yet a ready to wear more affordable philosophy.  She was known for her glove designs as well. She focused on creating her own designs not knocking off Parisian styles, although in the beginning her career began doing just that. See  Bettina Berch's biography, Radical by Design: The Life and Style of Elizabeth Hawes for more information.  I enjoy her graphic colorful dresses. She was interested in a less stiff approach to fashion as what had been popular in the past.  The Fashion Institute of New York and the Met have some great examples. I love this lounge set I found on display in the Salon of Dames,  here.

Hawes lounge outfit, circa 1939. Image by private collector/Salon of Dames. 

Sally Victor is famous for her hats. Any hat of hers from the 30s-50s is collectible.  See the met archive of her whimsical architectural hats here.

Charles James is thought of as one of American's first couture designers. I would be over the moon, to own any of his couture ballgowns from the 40s-60s. I adore his geometric hems seen in his four leaf clover dresses and his overall artistic construction.  I would love a 40s piece such as the one at the met, below. This pinterest page has a great collection of images of his work.

Charles James dress, Met Museum image. See it here.

Norman Norell started his business in the 40s and the evening coats and glam dresses are great. He worked with simple lines too especially for his day looks. He had a flair for costume and in the 70s designs this really shows. I'd love to have a 70s evening coat by him.

I hope you enjoyed this post on collecting "American" vintage and the list of influential designers to look for and whay. If you have an American vintage designer piece, feel free to post images. For more information on the history of the "American look" see the Met Museum essay here.

*I may have forgotten one or two American designers from the 70s or before, so please comment about someone you like that may not be listed or add tips on where to find the ones here. Remember this post focuses on those who opened in the 70s or before having been born in the states as a practical way to edit the post down.